Nobody can know them all, certainly not Rudy Kurniawan, who never set eyes on Burgundy. In the end, it was his imprecise knowledge of a particular domaine's history that tripped him up. It happened amid extreme merriment, one spring evening, in New York. The mistakes that he made, minuscule and highly arcane, upended his life. Also upended would be the practices and pleasures of seekers after rare old wine.